Author: luke

  • Dustin’s 18th Birthday Present

    For good or ill, gift giving amongst my male friends is not very good for birthdays, Christmas, anniversaries, Halloween, or any other occasion that normally requires a gift to be given. As far as I am concerned this works out just fine as long as everybody agrees to not give gifts. The moment one guy decides to give a gift to someone then they have broken the unspoken agreement and we are all pretty much confused as to what to do the next time. This story is about my effort to try and confuse the hell out of all my guy friends by giving my good friend Dustin an 18th birthday gift.

    In the United States, a male’s 18th birthday is a significant one as it allows you to purchase cigarettes, vote, join the military, and go to (most) strip clubs. My friend Dustin was having a party at his house for his 18th and everyone was going. Early on there would be family members and close friends and the latter parts of the evening would bring the rest of the town to make sure Dustin began his adult life as a celebrity in Simi Valley, as he still is to this day.

    Being a close friend, I was expected to arrive early and partake in the gift giving portion of the day. With about an hour to go I had no gift and I had no idea what I would give him. And then I had one of the greatest ideas I have ever had in my life — I would shit in a box and give it to him. The only way this idea could get into my head, I think, is that I was listening to Kevin and Bean a few weeks earlier and heard them talking to a guy who ran a service where he would mail the shit of his dogs to people and was making a lucrative living on the internet doing this.

    In my head, here is how I saw it going down: I would shit in a large box filled with packing peanuts so Dustin would open the box, see the peanuts, and just start digging around with his hands until he eventually found the prize and then everyone would laugh and I would be the coolest person ever. But here is how it actually went down.

    I had to find a box. The only box I could find of reasonable size was a box for a mini humidifier that was maybe 8 inches cubed and the cardboard was the same type of cardboard that they use to encapsulate VHS tapes or maybe a box of Oreos. So I went into my bathroom and hovered over my toilet. First off, it is difficult to be straining your quads and then take a shit. Second off, I didn’t realise exactly the direction that everything comes out when you are taking a shit. So I hovered over my toilet, held this box underneath me and hoped it would just land right inside. It ended up hitting the side and a little on my finger holding the box. Oh well. I anticipated there might be problems which is why I planned on showering right after. The box was maybe a quarter full — very good quantity as far as I was concerned. I put the box on the sink and jumped in the shower. My bathroom at this time was not that big and the heat from the shower collected easily outside, especially when you need extra time to wash the excrement off your finger after trying to shit in a small box. I got out of the shower only to find that my box o’ shit was starting to melt — not totally, but having the contents turn into liquid was definitely something I needed to deal with quickly. First plan of action was to put the packing peanuts in the box. Of course I had none, so I decided to take about 10 pieces of paper, rip them all up into small shreds and dump them into the box. This had the effect of giving the brown contents a sprinkle effect but in no way did it cover the contents or anything like I had originally planned. Whatever. So I closed the box and then needed to seal it. So I found electrical tape and wrapped the box. I used one really long piece to wrap it horizontally and another to wrap it vertically until I had this black electrical tape cube. I put the cube in a paper grocery bag and then covered that bag with another grocery bag. At this point I was feeling extremely giddy and was just grinning from ear to ear with visions of Dustin opening his gift. I sprayed the bag with a load of cologne, walked to my truck, put the bag in the bed of the truck, and drove to his house rocking out to some happy hardcore trance music.

    I show up at Dustin’s house and run inside. I immediately find Dustin and tell him to open my gift. He takes the bag and is about to open it when some family member called him upstairs. He put the bag on the pool table, which was in the centre of the house, and said he would be right back. I was almost hysterical at this point. I waited outside on the back patio bouncing up and down and found my other good friend Joe. Nobody else knew about what I had done and I was overflowing with anticipation. I eventually told Joe of what I had done just to be able to share my feeling of extreme excitement with someone. Dustin was upstairs for ages. I remember hearing somebody inside say “What is that smell?” and I just started freaking out with laughter. For all I knew the shit could have completely melted and was liquefied being held in by about 100 yards of electrical tape. We were soon to find out.

    Dustin finally came down and I immediately rushed to him and said that he had to open my gift because it was “time sensitive.” He grabbed the bag and went outside. Opened the bag and found a black electrical tape cube which was thankfully not seeping any substances from its cracks. He started removing the tape but it was proving to be difficult for him since it was two really long pieces of tape. A crowd had gathered at this point and everyone was curious to see what was in the black cube. His brother Zak came over to help. Zak held the box with his two fingertips while Dustin pulled the tape making the box spin really fast in front of Zak. At this point I almost fell onto the floor laughing. I had visions in my head as they reached the end of the tape and the box opening up and splattering shit all over Dustin and Zak as it spun around super fast because Dustin was pulling the tape so hard. Dustin noticed my condition and asked me: “Luke, what is this? Cat shit?” and I then proceeded to laugh even harder somehow sputtering out “No, of course not. Who would give their best bud cat shit?” And my answer was absolutely pregnant with truth.

    Now I would like to write that my vision of the spinning box splattering open actually happened but it didn’t. Dustin slowed down right at the end and took the box from Zak. He opened it up and immediately freaked out and threw it against the wall where it did actually splatter but no persons were directly affected. Everyone around was screaming to know what it was. Joe and I were rolling on the ground struggling to breathe. I mean honestly, who shits in a box and gives it to their best friend?

    I anticipated revenge but I have made sure to be out of the country for all of my birthdays since then and Dustin has never been able to get me back, although I am curious to know what he would do to top that one.

  • Laughter Across the Lake

    It was close to the halfway point during our Europe trip and we were all feeling a little weary. We needed a little rest and relaxation so we headed to Sweden. Sweden is mysteriously not included on the Eurorail route but our method around that was to just not buy tickets. The only problem with this is that you are on a train with assigned seats and you will need to move maybe a dozen times or more during the trip from Denmark to Stockholm. This wouldn’t be so bad normally, as long as the people are friendly — which they definitely are in Sweden — except for the fact that we had just slept in the park in Copenhagen playing a derivative of bat spin relay and we were very tired and slightly perturbed every time someone woke us up. We did try to play a game of chess with a homemade chess board and pieces out of paper which was ruined with a single cough. Or was it a sneeze?

    The destination was Bro, a very small town about an hour outside of Stockholm. The Swedish side of my family has a very darling country house about an hour’s walk from this small town Bro, where Anika Sorenstrom is from. This is where I first tried out hitchhiking. The country house is a quaint little cottage split into two parts. One part has the living room and kitchen with a main bedroom and the other part has a room with two bunk beds and a dry shitter. A dry shitter is the technical term used for a big hole in the ground that has a toilet sitting on top of it and every now and then you need to churn the shit so the pile doesn’t get too high and threaten to touch your bits. There are a few neighbours who tend to stick to themselves. People tend to move to this type of place to get away from the crowd and avoid creating a crowd at all costs.

    We would spend the days drinking low-percentage alcohol, cutting down a tree, killing bees, playing a form of bocce ball, and cliff jumping into the lake. Each of these activities is a story in itself but I do not want to get distracted from the point here. A problem I have always had is that I tend to wake up early, or at least earlier than the people around me. One of the mornings at the country house was no different. I awoke around 7 or 8 and it was clear I would be waiting for a while until the others would rise. I decided to go for a wash in the lake on my own.

    This lake is magnificent. I do not know what it is called but in the early morning light with its extremely still water shimmering, the image is embedded in my head forever. It is a very large lake — many kilometres long and maybe two kilometres across. I stripped naked and jumped in the freezing cold lake, sure that there was nobody around. I climbed back up on the rock and basked in the glorious Swedish sun. Something we miss in California is the ability to gaze into a clear sky and peer into the horizon as far as the curvature of the earth will allow, unless you stand above 14,000 feet on the top of Mt. Whitney.

    One problem with travelling the European continent with 4 other guys and sharing sleeping space with each other is that it can be difficult to find any “alone time”. Considering the beautiful scenery, the complete aloneness, and the early morning hour, I thought that this would be a good time. The warming sun on my naked body, the slightly slanting rock poising my body towards the large open lake — I couldn’t think of a better time or place. So I began.

    Everything was going as expected. There have only been a few times in my life where things haven’t gone as they should during these moments but the people who caused these moments know who they are and they can write their own story. Then at the eight-minute mark, something happened. From across the lake, I heard the most aggressive laughter I have ever heard. Almost as if Santa Claus himself had heard the funniest joke in his life. It started low and steady and continued for about 30 seconds. I immediately stopped what I was doing and started to gaze across the lake. I couldn’t see anybody but it was definitely nerve-racking. Maybe they had a telescope or binoculars or something. I don’t know what could be so funny for a Swedish guy, likely portly due to the throaty laugh, at this hour of the day. Eventually he subsided and I waited for a minute or two. I expected to have some camera crew come up on me saying I was on candid camera or something but it never happened. I started again and finished in a rather disappointing fashion, not sure if the guy was still watching.

    Later that day, with the other guys, as we were jumping off the same rock into the lake, I told them the story. They laughed equally heartily until I mentioned where they were standing.

  • Haircut Bets

    I have always had this desire to have a flowing mane of hair. Unfortunately with my genetics, that is becoming less likely with each passing day. I have heard that a male’s hair gene comes from the mother’s father, in which case I am going to have a nice shiny head with a ring of hair wrapping the back and sides with outrageously bushy eyebrows. Interestingly, in the last few months I have had a random hair growing from my left eyebrow that is exceedingly long and a different color from the rest of my eyebrow hairs. If I pull it out, it grows back really quick so I choose to leave it in and tug on it in front of people to freak them out. But I digress — the following three-part story is about my effort to force myself to grow really long hair.

    Part 1: Computer Science Class

    Senior year of high school was a breeze for me. I had a free first and fifth period and played sports all year so my 6th period was either for practice or also free in the off season. Of my real classes, one was AP Computer Science with Mr. McDermott. The first 20 minutes of each class was us waiting for Mr. McDermott to figure out his roll call system that unexpectedly seemed to surprise him … all the time. I attended this class with a good friend of mine Pro Ha who took enormous horseshoe-size chews while I harassed the population while we waited for McDermott.

    One day Pro Ha and I decided to grow our hair out. But to make sure this happened we wrote up a contract which unfortunately has been lost in the winds of time. The terms went something like this: if you cut your hair before the other you will get pepper sprayed. (Initial revisions of the contract allowed for the choice of a stun gun, the one that sticks needles into you, but we abandoned this idea.)

    At some point we allowed our friend Rockero to join the hair cut bet. He was a ringer since he did not go to school, play sports, and he worked at Play It Again Sports. After months and months our hair was getting out of control. Much respect to the females for managing long hair all their lives. When prom time came around, Pro Ha could not take it anymore and decided he required clean-cut prom pictures. He cut his hair in secret to make sure that I would go to prom with my hair extremely long. I even saw him that day at the flower shop but when I tried to say hi, he ran away from me to hide what he had done.

    I was ready to cut my hair as it was becoming a burden while I played soccer in the hot California weather. I ultimately cut my hair several days later taking second place, meaning that Rockero had won — that bastard. We decided on a day to enact the consequences and the plan was for me to pepper spray Pro Ha and Rockero to pepper spray me right after.

    This is all on video somewhere and if you happen to have these, please send them in. You know who you are.

    I stood about 5 feet from Pro Ha and blasted him in the eyes with some pepper spray we bought at the swap meet. He fell to the ground instantly and was screaming, although not louder than the roar of laughter from all his friends! Unfortunately for Pro Ha he had his eyes locked shut and was not able to see Rockero stand in front of me and spray this foul substance into my eyes. It is really hard to stand in front of someone with pepper spray and keep your eyes open. It hit my eyes and they immediately shut with no chance of opening for about 45 minutes. I fell to the ground and started crawling around looking for the hose which Pro Ha was using himself. Definitely a funny sight watching someone on all fours staring directly into the end of a hose that is on full blast and listening to them try to explain how much it hurts. If you removed the water from your eyes, it would hurt worse than it did in the beginning.

    We were told that highway patrol men need to get sprayed and then do an obstacle course which I find extremely hard to believe. I have also heard stories of people on drugs pulling up stop signs from the ground while getting doused with high-powered pepper spray and then still being able to beat up the cops. We also heard that a significant percentage of the population are not affected by pepper spray, as well as dogs.

    Part 2: Luke goes to university to dupe some newbies

    Move ahead one year or so and into the dorms at University of California, Irvine. I was describing this bet to my two good friends Pat and Geoff and we decided to do the bet again. I was coming off a second place in my previous bet which taught me to never lose this type of bet again. The bet had the same terms. Geoff eventually was excommunicated from the bet after we found out that he was trimming his hair ever so slowly to make it appear that it was never changing. To this day Pat and I still think we should sneak up on Geoff and douse the bastard! Pat started the bet with a two month head start of not cutting his hair but he was aware of his decision.

    This bet did not last that long and I was ultimately the winner. Maybe Pat can fill in the real reasons for him cutting his hair but I think it was just because he secretly wanted to experience pepper spray. Now at this point I was experienced at shooting the pepper spray. Pat stood maybe 10 feet away from me but the distance did not matter. I zapped him in the eyes with the first pass from left to right and then I wrote my name in handwriting across his forehead and mouth making sure to have complete coverage. Pat had heard that in the previous bet we had dropped to the floor and found water instantly and he chose to try and avoid doing that to one-up us. So for about 5-10 minutes Pat did an amazing job of pacing back and forth in the grass with his eyes shut and spewing curse words about the accuracy of my shot and anything else he could think of. I am sure if he could see, he would have been throwing punches. Pat can be aggressive and with pepper spray filling his tear ducts he was like a wounded rhino in heat. Eventually he hit the shower and we all laughed about it afterwards.

    Part 3: Luke gets his revenge

    One night while I was visiting my friends back in Simi Valley and playing 100 club (100 shots of beer in 100 minutes), I was describing how I had got my friend Pat to feel the pain of the pepper spray. Part of my story was how I would never lose again, EVER. I would do anything other than get pepper sprayed. And then I said the sentence that kicked off the next hair cut bet. “I would rather eat my own shit than get pepper sprayed again!” And the bet was on between me and Helvig who had still yet to know what it felt like to have your eyeballs peed on by a volcano.

    Circumstances had changed at this point. I was not playing soccer as competitively as I was before and Helvig had got himself a job at a bank. Unfortunately for him, those banker types don’t look well on someone with long shaggy hair slowly turning into a mullet.

    For months we had the very gross conversation of how I would perform my penalty if I were to lose. Most of the suggestions had to do with my sobriety or what I would eat for a week before. It did not matter to me because I knew I would never lose. Eventually Rockero caved and he cut his hair. I pepper sprayed him good and well with an evil smile on my face the whole time. Oh the taste of sweet revenge, or in Rockero’s case, searingly hot revenge.

    In Conclusion

    I have pepper sprayed three of my best friends and I don’t have any regrets. I still will run like a ninny if I see pepper spray within 100 metres though. As I write this I have not cut my hair for 5 months and my reasoning now is to look more like the indigenous Argentinians as opposed to the gringo that I am, which I believe to be working. Any challengers out there?

  • Your Honor

    4247 Gorriti
    Capital Federal
    Buenos Aires
    Argentina

    Your Honor,

    On October 22nd I made a stupid mistake on my bicycle. Of course I know that bicycles are supposed to ride in the same direction of traffic and of course I know that to run a stop sign on a bicycle is also illegal. The fact that I did both these things at the same time while holding a steady pace of 25mph+ at a crowded intersection in Costa Mesa while riding a bike with little to no brakes is flat out inexcusable. I am not writing to you now to try and argue my case with an elaborate poster drawing of the intersection, by no means. However I do require your help in the most direst of ways.

    Officer Dibble seemed to be quite impressed with the rate of speed I could move around town while wearing sandals so he was kind enough to give me the choice between the two violations described above. Dibble was not aware of the cost for either ticket and since I had heard of someone getting a stop sign ticket before, I decided to try something new and go with the ticket described as “Bicycle operation on roadway, same direction as motor vehicles.” In my opinion far less of a crime than flying into an intersection with blind corners and stray poodles with a bag of chicken bowl bouncing around your left wrist.

    I went home and told my roommates about this situation and we argued about the cost and what I should have done. In the end a bet was made. I took the under on a $100 fine and my roommate took the over. Loser paid $100. Several weeks later the ticket came and it was for $118. Shit!

    I intended to speak with you then regarding the cost of this fine however there was not enough time before I left for Argentina which is where I am now. I requested an extension online which was kindly given to me however it was only until February 22nd and I will not be back in the United States until May 1st. This deadline came and went and I have been recently sent a scanned image of a “FINAL NOTICE” going to collections type of letter unless I pay $453. I can understand the court’s concern for my absence but there is no need to get testy with the fine. I was riding a bicycle and in turn helping our fine city become better. In fact I am tempted to say that you should be paying me money but that can wait for another time.

    So in conclusion I am asking for one of two things:

    1. Can you extend the time it will take until my case is sent to your collections vendor to allow me to come visit you in person at the Harbor Justice Center.
    2. Could you just reduce the fine to $99 and we can call everything settled. I am coming back from a 5 month trip through South America and have been on a fixed budget for a while. $453 could get me to Antarctica and back and that would be a very cool trip. You should come.

    I look forward to hearing from you with your decision.

    Sincerely and Respectfully,

    Luke Ollett

  • Boca Juniors Fútbol Game

    One day, a kangaroo, a lemur, and a parrot decide to go to a Boca Juniors soccer game in Buenos Aires. They had heard that a game was being played against a team named Huracán, a relatively weak opponent. They had also heard that to go to a Boca game without camouflage and a 90-litre backpack filled with all the usual necessities of walking through the Amazon, it meant certain death or severe maiming. This story attempts to follow these three through their experience and try to make it clear to the curious gringo of how to enjoy this Experience.

    Lemur, Kangaroo, and Parrot had very little information going into this Experience to give them any clue of what to expect. All they knew was that Boca is supposed to represent the poor population and is in a dubious part of town with a night-time game. The passion runs high with these people and it can be very difficult to rationalise with someone who is half insane with drum beats and speaks a different language than you. Not to mention the fact that Parrot was the whitest animal around and stood several inches taller than everyone. From the little information they were able to gather, it appeared that for anyone other than a Boca inhabitant, tickets would be costly and upwards of 200 pesos — not including the jersey required to enter the stadium to avoid random floggings. Check out bocaexperience.com for the full lowdown.

    The three heroes decide this would be unacceptable and find a friend who can get them a ticket from that website for only 130 pesos. Still a lot, but better than being completely duped. So they pick up the tickets at a very seedy-looking bar in an even seedier-looking part of town. The exchange was made with Juancho and they now had tickets. They purchased jerseys and were kitted out. The last thing Juancho said to them was to make sure they use door 7, otherwise they would be with “the mob.” He also assured them that just because the tickets said doors 12 and 14, they should use door 7. Advice was duly noted. Boca jerseys

    They head in the direction of the stadium, La Bombonera, hoping to find a beer or two before they entered. It became clear that the roads were being cordoned off and the kioscos did not sell any beer. Obviously an abundance of alcohol at these events had caused some serious damage in the past. All of the houses were strongly fortified up to about 15 feet, at which point there were always dogs staring down and dripping saliva. There was a very large line that the three herded themselves into, as animals do. The other animals around them appeared to be equally confused about why they had just got into a really long line without asking any questions. The line began to move quickly and fortunately they found themselves in line for door 7. They get to the front and are told immediately and without question that they could not enter through door 7. They got herded to the side and told to enter on the other side of the stadium. Outside the Bombonera They went to the VIP section to try and use their unique appearance as a bargaining chip but that was ineffective.

    The other side of the stadium was filled with scalpers offering up tickets and hot dogs being sold. There is a general admissions line that Lemur was sure would have sold the exact piece of paper they had paid 100 pesos extra for. They wait in line, get searched several times, have their ticket checked several times by many cops who appeared to be doing nothing other than grunting something as you walked by.

    The construction of the Bombonera was never completed as they intended. The houses on one side of the stadium fought to keep their lives intact and fought off the football team. So instead they built a vertical VIP box wall on one side of the stadium. One end of the field is where door 7 leads to. It is filled with seats and was very crowded for the whole game. Above that section was the away team crowd The stadium which, although small, packed a hell of a roar and brought many sorts of instruments and flags to back it up. The other long side of the field is a very mellow seated section which appeared to be filled with the older crowd who enjoyed watching football and were likely members of the club. The other short side is what they call “La Popular” where the general hooligans and riff-raff sit. And by sit I mean go absolutely bonkers for 2 hours.

    There are no seats in the popular section so everyone is standing and alternating their way up the stairs where bars about chest-high allow people to lean on them. When the three looked for a place to settle in the crowd they picked a spot right in the middle. There were several other animals taking these extremely long pieces of blue and yellow cloth and tying them to the bottom and top leaning bars. At this point it began to rain with incredible intensity, which had no effect on anything that was going on. The three visitors to this habitat were right under one of the pieces of cloth which smelled like it had been used as a sweat rag since 1989 and never washed, and likely had been left in the stadium overnight. They also figured that the flags would move when kickoff came. This did not happen. Instead everyone around started fighting for a spot on one of these metal leaning bars. They would use the huge cloth to lean forward and stand on the bar. The popular section On a bar about 15 feet long there were 15 people holding onto this piece of cloth that was being used by 4 other leaning bars above them while it was raining to the point they could not see the other side of the stadium. The footwear of these acrobats was definitely not adequate for jumping and screaming while on a bar 4 feet high on a stadium stand at maybe a 50-degree slant.

    Even with Kangaroo hopping as high as he could, the three of them felt really dumb after a while of not seeing the game and staring at ankles and catching a drunk or stoned guy as he slipped on a metal leaning bar. They found a spot which gave them maybe 70 percent coverage of the field. Lemur realised quickly that his spot was the main thoroughfare to exit the area and he also realised that his sandals were not sufficient protection from the drunk guy in front of him unpredictably moving his feet as he struggled to lean on the fat guy next to him. The three could look behind them and see a heaving crowd of fanáticos screaming and singing song after song. Many were not even looking at the game and had a look of physical strain on their faces as they tried to get every The fanatics last inch of sound out of themselves to encourage their team.

    The game itself was entertaining but not a great demonstration of Argentine soccer or for the reigning champions of the league. The crowd encourages the players to slide hard and recklessly, with booming roars when a tackle is successful. The problem is they don’t say anything bad when the defenders miss a tackle with a flailing slide from 20 feet on the wet grass.

    The second half was uneventful for the three visiting animals, except for the fact that they changed to a new location offering a better view as well as the rain doubling its strength and tenacity.

    With 3 minutes left the animals decide to leave the scene and attempt to get out early. They walk into the exit corridor which was Exit corridor rather packed with people, understandably due to the rain. The three animals squirmed halfway into the thick of people before they realised that policemen were not letting anyone through this exit. Many other people started to leave too, only to pack this corridor even more. Lemur had a frantic guy and his child try to squeeze to the front, only to be lodged right in front of Lemur. Lemur had his snout about 1 inch away from a guy who was needlessly panicking and turning his head fast and wildly. Meanwhile the kid of this guy was punching Lemur in the Lemur goods, definitely needlessly. The police waited until the rest of the stadium was out before they would let the hooligans out — and quite rightly so. The crowd eventually brute-forced their way past the police and ran for the exits, no doubt to hunt down the other sections in a brutal race through the streets of La Boca.

    After walking for miles, they were told by the first brave taxi to pick them up that taxis just do not operate in Boca after a game.

    How to Go to a Boca Juniors Fútbol Game

    • If you pick a game other than San Lorenzo, River Plate, or Independiente, then keep reading these instructions — otherwise tickets will be extremely hard to get and likely expensive. The team gives priority to members of the club and tickets will be used by them first.
    • Go to the ticket windows. Get in a taxi and say “take me to doors 12 and 14 in front of the Bombonera” and say it with confidence. Your ticket should cost 30 pesos. There are lots of windows and some may be closed, but one will be open — maybe the one at the very end.
    • If you feel brave you can buy some scalped tickets in the main plaza in front of the ticket windows. I heard there are a lot of fake tickets going around, however.
    • Make sure you are wearing a jersey and not flashing anything flashy around.
    • Go straight to the middle of the popular section and start screaming and singing. You won’t see the game but they will love you. If you want to watch the game, stay away from the flags in the middle.
    • Don’t leave early. Just wait until the yells stop.
    • There was no alcohol but people were definitely drunk. There was also a lot of drugs of all sorts and they didn’t seem to mind the police at the top of the stand.
    • The other stand has tickets for 60 pesos or so but is not nearly as fun and is usually sold out to members.
    • Act like you are singing the whole time as they will harass you if you look like you are not chanting.

    Don’t be duped into becoming a River fan because you are told it is safer than a Boca game. Boca is perfectly fine and she will be prepared to embrace you with all her love!

  • Things I Could Do Without in Buenos Aires

    I absolutely love this city! And with extremely nice apartments in the city and nice beach-side homes for around $60k, not to mention the amazing people I have been meeting, I will return to this wonderful place throughout my life. However, there are some aspects of the city that just cannot be ignored. I would never say these things are deal breakers, but none the less, they must be respected or you fall victim to the horrible consequences.

    1. My house has a “huge” backyard but I would venture a guess that most of the inhabitants of this city either have no backyard or only a very small one. None the less, a huge majority of the people in this city have dogs. Dogs of all sizes and the people enjoy walking their dogs. If they cannot walk their dog(s) there are many people offering dog-walking services. It is a law here, as it is in California, that you have to pick up your dog’s feces just to make sure that you feel inferior to your four-legged companion. But no one does it here. No one. And the few people I have seen attempt it will do an embarrassingly poor job to the point you can see them looking around after their attempt hoping no one saw them. This makes for some treacherous walking on the streets. It has not happened to me yet but last year I walked right into a nice warm one in my rainbow sandals, which do not offer much in the way of side protection. A friend of mine, Parv, had a great idea which I am supposed to execute on but it might be difficult in my time left here. He thinks it would be hilarious — and I agree — to walk around and find the hot steaming piles growing ripe in the hot Argentine sun, put on some big wellies, and wait until people are walking by and then just purposely stomp hard into the animal feces. Of course this would be done repeatedly, videotaped, and compiled into a YouTube video. Wellies are expensive here though, I looked.
    2. I came here during the summer months on purpose. I knew it would be hot but I enjoy warm weather. I bragged to people in the northern hemisphere that I was living the endless summer this year. But it rains here, and it rains more regularly than a southern California kid would like to deal with. But the rain is predictable and usually follows extreme heat and rolls in around early afternoon, ending early evening. But with this rain come three sub-issues:
      1. With reference to my first gripe above, the rain will wash the dog feces off the sidewalks. Seems like a good thing, right? Well with the hot sun around here and thin ozone layer, the sun actually quickly encapsulates the feces in an outer crusty layer, locking in any odours. The rain breaks this outer layer down and the streets are filled with a faint odour of dog feces which blends with other species of dog feces and makes for an outrageously horrible experience.
      2. Bike tracks and races close.
      3. Since the sidewalks are made from tiles many times and not straight cement, water will collect underneath the tiles. It has been raining all afternoon and you are ready to go out for a drink and have gotten all dressed up — now the rain has stopped. If one of these tiles is loose and you walk on it, the water underneath will squirt up and cover your lower trouser leg giving you a horrible sensation and a chance to practice your Spanish on why your trousers are dirty.
    3. The people here have an extreme love for the sidewalk directly in front of their store or house. The sidewalks are never consistent and are made from different materials since each house builds their own sidewalk. So in a blatant spit in the face of water conservation, they are always hosing down their sidewalk to clear the dirt, dust, leaves, or dog shit. I think this is great except for the fact that the one problem I have with flip-flops is that they become lethally slippery on wet tiled surfaces. Refer to the entry on how to deep fry a turkey to get an image of how I have fallen on the sidewalks here.
    4. It can be extremely hot here and of course people have air conditioners. You can look up and see a 20-storey building with hundreds of these things dotted on the outside. Definitely not central air. And more to the point, no central drainage either. Each of these things will drip water from the condensation of the machine. Some places have bottles collecting the water but others just let the water drip to the sidewalk. So as you are walking you will see puddles of water and you cannot step over them — you have to go around or get wet.
    5. Walking in general can be treacherous. I have mentioned the landmines and uneven sidewalks making you stare straight at the ground. At the same time you need to be looking ahead for the air conditioning puddles. Buses and taxis will drive very close to the sidewalks and although the horn is used liberally here, it can be very rattling to have a 20-tonne object whisk by you only inches away as you are trying to avoid the dog shit. The people here are really bad walkers as well and can be very frustrating for someone who likes to move fast in general.
    6. People seem cold at first, on the streets, and rarely say hello to you. Likely because they are looking out for the landmines and buses and air conditioning puddles. However the people here go out of their way to help you and talk with you all the time and are very approachable at bars, restaurants, heladerías, and everywhere else. A simple question for directions will start a five-minute conversation about life, the universe, and everything in it.
    7. My double bed really being made from two single beds that are exceedingly “single” and linked with a very thin mattress top. I miss my California king memory foam mattress pad — I should have brought that.
    8. The guy at Retiro who is convinced my bike box won’t fit in a taxi and refuses to help me. So then I wave my own taxi down and then when I am about to leave, he demands a tip, and when I refuse to pay he starts to unload the bike box. I yell at him and he threatens me and I finally just give him my 60 cents. Apparently these people are mob-related and next time I will just pay my 60 cents without arguing.
    9. Inconsistent internet and slow upload speeds.
    10. People telling me that the people here are not friendly and everything is dangerous. They are obviously doing something wrong as I have only had good experiences.
    11. Buses that only accept coins and not cash and will kick you off the bus even if you try to tip the guy 5 times the amount of the fare.
    12. Clubs that kick you out for peeing in the girls’ bathroom because I did not see the little picture of a woman out front. I did think it was weird that there were no urinals at that club. I did put the toilet seat down, however.

    Having said all that, I love this city more than most!

  • The Most Scared I Have Ever Been

    A great question to ask somebody is “when were you most scared?” I find it can be a very revealing story and always interesting. I have heard stories having to do with being underwater for way too long, watching a loved one receive a serious injury, high-speed collisions, falls from tall places, animal attacks, waking up from bad dreams, and many more. Interestingly, many have to do with near-death situations. We are all terrified to die it seems — and quite rightly so when we have such a lovely world around us. I will have to elaborate more on my theory on death in a later entry, but now is no time for philosophy. Here is the time when I was most scared.

    I was at my good friend Dustin’s house, which we called the Villa since his surname was ‘Villa’ plus another eight syllables. During high school we spent many a night partying, hanging out, playing games, being lazy, and finding trouble at the Villa. The convenient location and amazing parental units (thanks Debby and Tom!) never went to waste. This particular Saturday night was not a special night but there were probably 12 people in the house playing games and talking and generally keeping themselves entertained.

    Early in the night Dustin and I were playing Tetris 64, I believe. We would play in these ridiculous hour-long games at a speed that was incomprehensible to our onlookers and impressive enough to make them watch Tetris for an hour. During the game I remember hearing one of the girls behind me say something like “OH MY GOD! I just saw the Scream mask outside!” (Like the movie.) We all laughed it off and said she was crazy — and she probably was — and continued doing what we were doing.

    Maybe an hour later Dustin starts telling me about some video he got online which was a video of somebody getting their head shot off up close. We started arguing about whether it was real or not and eventually we go upstairs to his room to take a look at the video. Zak and Scott follow me and Dustin into the room to watch. Just to add some details to the situation: Dustin is a 6’9″ Jewish white guy. Zak is Dustin’s brother who was many years younger than us but bigger than the rest of us and just crazy enough that we liked having him around. Scott was (probably still is) a very well-trained army guy who was recently back from some deadly mission. So we are watching the video over and over again, pausing it at the most gory parts and staring at the screen very close trying to figure out if there is something in the video that would prove it to be fake.

    CLICK! The lights turn out and the entire house goes completely black. The kind of black that is darker than the backs of your eyelids. Immediately I could hear gunshots downstairs, girls screaming, guys shouting, and people being thrown into the walls or something similar. Luke, with all his courage and bravery, decides the best option is to stay still and move against the side wall of Dustin’s room in an attempt to camouflage himself in the dark. I had no idea what Zak, Scott, or Dustin did. The commotion downstairs starts to be less frequent and eventually all is silent. A gunshot every now and then goes off followed by a scream. Luke is pressed firmly against the wall and trying to control his breathing and I remember thinking that my breathing sounded so loud. Then I started to hear footsteps walking up the stairs. No voices. Just slow and deliberate footsteps. I was on the wall adjacent to the doorway and with my back right up against the wall — if I turned my head completely to the left I would see whoever would walk into the room. The plan when that happened was never really properly thought out, however.

    I stayed as still as I possibly could. I reduced my breathing as much as possible but this only made me breathe louder, I felt. My eyes had adjusted somewhat to the dark and I realised my plan to be camouflaged was just stupid. And then the footsteps stopped outside the door. This made my breathing even louder I think, and I am sure they heard it. Then a head peered in the doorway wearing some sort of mask. First it looked forward, then it turned to the left (away from me), and then it turned to the right, staring straight at me. Then the head pulled back and for a moment I thought I had escaped. Then all of a sudden the figure came into the room and put me in a headlock and bent me over backwards and said “Who is this?” I said “It’s Luke” in a somewhat childish voice. Then the person said “This is Brent and Brandon. We are playing a trick on you guys.” I knew immediately who they were and a huge smile grew on my face. I was overwhelmed with the situation and was pretty much just happy that nothing else had happened. I congratulated them on their good work and was truly impressed with the complexity of their “joke.” They asked me if anyone else was upstairs and I said I don’t know — and I also warned them that likely everyone had called the cops by now. With the lights still off I led the intruders into the upstairs bathroom where I thought Zak and Scott had gone. Right when I walked into the bathroom I was slammed into another headlock and bent over backwards and before I could say anything, the lights turned on. That snapshot in time needs to be documented somehow. Maybe Zak can draw a picture. Scott had bent me over backwards putting some hardcore military move on me and Zak was coming down on me with a 9-inch knife (he always had many knives laying around). And the intruders were behind all this just watching. So basically, had the lights not turned on, I could have been stabbed by “my own team.” For that moment I have thanked every god that our species has come up with.

    Dustin had somehow got out of the house in three bounds with his long lanky legs. The people downstairs received a barrage of paintball gun shots to the face (no paintballs were used) while some of the guys were roughed up a little bit. Mainly Sven, since the intruders did not really like him. In the end, the girls were crying and the guys were pissed. I was chatting with the intruders asking them how they did it and having a general laugh. The Scream mask was used to scope out the “joint” beforehand and then they cut the breakers and entered from the back door. Apparently they had done this before but this was the biggest one. Some 6 people had called the cops and they were pretty much there immediately. All the guns and gear were confiscated. However the police were the parents of some of the intruders and I am sure they got the gear back.

    I have many other fearful moments, but at the point in time when I was listening to the footsteps slowly ascend the stairs, I know of no other time when I had more fear building in my body. I am slightly ashamed for not pulling some ninja tactics and in hindsight I should have just climbed out the window, or at least hid in the corner of the room or under the bed or anything other than standing against the wall. Oh well, back to ninja camp for me.

  • How to Not Deep Fry a Turkey

    In the last few years it has become very popular to deep fry a turkey in the United States, or at least in southern California. I suppose this is due to the fact that we are all getting lazier and claim to be so busy that we do not have the time to cook such splendid feasts anymore, like the ones we have been having with Kurt and Jamie the last few years. (Thank you both for the splendid memories.) So my Dad is a pretty good cook — I will admit that he can make a killer roast and a spectacular gravy. And for an English man these are two very important things, considering a roast is a national staple food and gravy is mandatory to hide the fact that the English haven’t used salt since World War II. One Thanksgiving, with the help of my good friend Pat, we attempted to deep fry a turkey and the following picture I find to be very revealing of how it went.

    Thanksgiving Deep Fry

    I love this picture because it opens my mind and lets me actually relive this particular moment in my life. As in any good Where’s Waldo book, it contains all the elements necessary to construct an amazing story. (I do apologise for the distorted proportions but this was a photograph taken of a photograph since the Argentines want to charge me 3 pesos a picture for scanning and no one has a scanner.)

    There’s no mystery to how to deep fry a turkey. You basically buy a large amount of cooking oil, fill up a steel cylinder with the stuff, then put it on top of a jet burner attached to a sufficient supply of compressed gas — which is just out of the frame of this picture, but rest assured, it is there and filled to the brim. You put the turkey onto a metal holding device so you can lift the turkey out of the soon-to-be-scalding pot after some prescribed time. This is all told to us on the outside of some box that the stores will sell to anyone over the age of 6. This simple description is what we thought was all that was needed.

    Insert catalyst one, and probably the most important catalyst. Pat is holding a crystal glass filled with some 18-year-old whiskey and there is another glass behind my dad’s left arm. No doubt mine was within arm’s reach. I cannot say how far into the lovely bottle of Scotch we were at this point but it is sufficient to say that we were all enjoying the moment immensely, despite some of the next few statements I am about to make.

    We are all wearing sandals, which is normal for California (except for my dad wearing socks with his sandals), but probably not a good idea when there is a large flame at full blast just about ankle level.

    Notice the ground is all wet. Well it isn’t really wet, I would say. I am not sure how you describe something that is all covered in oil, but that is what the ground was — covered in oil. What happened was my dad filled the cylinder with oil, to the top. We then turned the heat on and waited until the stuff was boiling. Then we start lowering the 20-pound turkey into the oil. Pat, my dad, and I are sharp guys and it didn’t take long to realise that we should have measured the amount of oil to put in with the turkey already in the cylinder, not empty. (You use water to accomplish this beforehand.) So either way we make a game-time decision while hovering the turkey in the air and decide that there is no way we can just wait for the oil to cool down and discard some of it, so we just drop the turkey into the oil. The whole time oil is cascading over the edge of the cylinder and flowing directly over the jet flame underneath the cylinder. I do not know how there was no explosion, but there wasn’t.

    What am I doing anyway? Well the box comes with two hooks that are used to lift and lower the turkey out of the cylinder. At some point we thought it would be a good idea to drop one of the hooks into the cylinder and cook it with the turkey. This great idea made it very difficult to lift the turkey out. In the end we constructed our own reinforced hook out of some coat-hanger type metal and dug around for the other hook, dropped it on the ground and let it cool off before we used it again.

    All that brown stuff behind Pat is the usual oak tree clutter that would collect on the ground at my house. Likely very flammable.

    In the end the turkey was not that bad. If anything maybe a little dry, but the gravy hid that fact. We likely let it cook too long while we dug around for the hook. I am forever a fan of using the oven or burying your food with coals and will not attempt deep frying again. However it did make for a good story.

    After dinner, we cleared everything away and everything looked fine except for the fact that there was a giant oil slick on our patio. I say to Pat, “Hey you should try and slide across the oil slick. It would look hilarious and you would appear to be moonwalking.” And of course Pat responds, “Yeah, that is a great idea.” Now this was a great idea, trust me, but the problem was that Pat had some image in his head that he could run up to the oil slick and just slide for 20 yards or something, casually looking around and tipping his hat and winking at the ladies as he glided. It’s one thing to see people fall, but the moment Pat hit the oil slick, he immediately fell in the fastest fall I had ever seen. A fall so fast that I am sure Pat was hurting severely but because it was so unexpected he couldn’t help but think he had broken some natural law and we all had to laugh about the audacity of that even happening. He got up, slightly oily, and we toasted to one of the better Thanksgivings I have ever had.

  • Arrecifes Bike Race

    The time had come once again to pack up my bicycle and head off into the campo (fields) of the state of Buenos Aires to seek victory and fame in my beloved sport of cycling. The race was early on Sunday so I needed to take a 3-hour bus on Saturday to find a hotel, assemble the bike, prepare, and beat every Argentine I could possibly find in front of me — on the track of course. Here’s how it went down.

    In my previous race I had partied hard the day before. This proved to be almost fatal, bringing my heart rate to a maximum of 209 during the race. The rule of thumb for maximum heart rate is to take 220 and subtract your age. I am 25 years old. None the less, I partied hard on Friday and enjoyed a successful asado at our house for 12 people. Hope the lady of my house doesn’t read this, otherwise we are all in for it! This didn’t matter since the race was on Sunday. I woke up with plenty of time, packed the bike into the box and made my way to the bus station. The trip worried me slightly since there were 12 stops between BsAs and my final destination, which meant there were that many chances for my relatively expensive bike to be stolen in a nicely wrapped package. However, no instances of bad luck on the way there.

    I arrived in town and found that this place was even more desolate than Olavarria was. There wasn’t even a bus station. Arrecifes street You just got off the bus and then you were in the middle of a dusty road with a few shops that sold really crappy t-shirts to the local workers for $3. I entered the nearest store and started asking for a hotel. A rather attractive looking lady decided she would test her drawing skills and gave me a 20-minute lecture on what there is in Arrecifes as well as where to find it and at what time. I could not have run into a nicer lady and I felt extremely well prepared all of a sudden. I walked to the prescribed hotel which was only 2 blocks but quite a chore with a giant bike box. I enter the lazy-looking “El Rutenero” hotel and book my 70-peso hotel room. It was a very nice room by any standard and I was pleased. I asked to build my bike in the reception which he obliged. While in there I Hotel reception became the local California celebrity who had a “que buena caja” which can probably be interpreted in a nasty way if you are American.

    I rode the town and looked for the bike track. The track is normally an autódromo or a car race track and was a lot more than I had expected. Again I had to ride on dirt to get onto the track but no punctures. Seriously, Argentines — pave the roads! There were people there riding around and they were all intrigued with me wearing sandals as I rode for about 20 minutes getting a feel for the track during the sunset hours. I was approached by a few people and word spread through the few groups of people that I was a “yankee” which is a term actually listed in most Spanish-English dictionaries defined as someone from the U.S.

    I went home, showered, and looked for food. Before I left I had a rather comical conversation with some fellow cyclists Fellow cyclists at the hotel staying at the hotel who were racing on Sunday. The comedy had mostly to do with all of our race preparations which basically involved drinking some sort of alcohol and not getting much sleep. We were instantly friends. I left to find the Vudu bar which was on the corner of the one main street in town. As I ate, the air was filled with the noise of small wimpy motorcycles riding back and forth. I had chosen the area of town where all the kids take their shitty little moped and rev the engine and pop 3-inch wheelies with their fat girlfriend on the back. There were all sorts of bikes but for the most part they were the standard run-of-the-mill variety. Many were customised though — blue lights, handlebar flares, extended mirrors, FMF exhaust pipes, modified springs to accommodate for the weight of these fat girls, extra loud horns, and flashy paint jobs. The mopeds There were a few larger sport bikes that made an incredible noise which doesn’t make too much sense since the town is only one mile square. Only a few daring souls impressed me but would have fallen on their face flat if they heard stories of Kamran and me riding at speeds in excess of 173 mph through traffic or using every lane on PCH swerving from side to side. It reminded me of “cruising the Regal Cinemas” in Simi Valley. My pizza was burnt and I didn’t tip. I even asked for a new pizza which I got — and it was burnt. Tough to do in a foreign language.

    I didn’t sleep well that night. I had dreams of missing the race and I think I was just nervous for some reason.

    Race day arrives. I see the two older racers in the morning and we talk cycling and compare bikes and all that stupid stuff that only a real cyclist could get a kick out of while wearing tights and having shaved bodies. They raced first so I thought it was a little odd I was way ahead of them, but it was my usual habit of being overly punctual. The race track Get a grip, you late bastards! Do you know how annoying it is to wait for people when they are late? You know who you are. I go to the track and end up setting up camp with the guys from the hotel. They have a larger group that I was not aware of. All very nice people from a place called Lomas near my house in BsAs. I figure out that I am to race in the open category for people under 38. To clear things up: there are basically three levels of cycling here. The lowest, which is the open class called the “inactivos” since they don’t race often. Then the promocionales and finally the elite. The promocionales would represent our Category 2 and 3 while the elite are basically sponsored pros. So I was racing in the weakest class but I was fine with that considering my training had been no more than 2 hours most days on a flat circuit that gets tediously boring, followed with beer and wine.

    It turns out the people I was hanging out with were quite well known amongst the people there and I was introduced to many a person, often times followed with a story of why that guy is a really good cyclist and to look for him in the elites later. My race comes around at 10am. I warm up and we all meet at the starting line. There are roughly 50 racers. While we are waiting they announce that they notice I am listed from California and they decide to announce my presence to the crowd of several hundred, label me as the “yankee” (pronounced “shankee”) and ask for a round of applause — which was most embarrassing considering neither they, nor I, knew how I would fare in the race. The race starts and I lead the first lap with a fast pace since they had to give me that introduction. The race would be for 50 minutes and immediately it was very competitive with breaks constantly being executed. I stayed in the front for a lot of the time despite the screams from my corner saying “DESPACIO!!!” but it didn’t matter because this punk guy was messing with my rhythm so I was going to bury him on the uphill — which I did every time — and I think he was rather annoyed. Halfway through the race my Garmin computer falls off my bike near the largest crowd of spectators as I am zooming past at 45 km/h and I realise that $200 machine that talked to satellites was most definitely gone. I also lost my heart rate monitor which is a vital part of my racing strategy. I know I can sustain 189 bpm for pretty much 90 minutes and any higher for prolonged periods is a sure-fire way to experience total body failure, which is an unpleasant thing to say the least. So I decided to take the next 15 minutes “easy” and stay away from the front of the pack. “TRES VUELTAS MAS! TRES TRES TRES!” is heard on the loudspeaker and the anticipation and nervousness envelop the peloton. We all know that in 6 minutes the best rider will be revealed. These last three laps are tenacious and everyone is riding closer and harder, making for some extremely dangerous moments. Several riders were forced into the grass; I myself ran into the tyre in front of me and almost fell to surely be laced with tread marks on my backside, but I recovered with a good dose of panic and adrenaline. The last lap I stayed about 20 riders back. On the first uphill I swooped up to about 6th place and rode the slipstream. The last turn was extremely fast and everyone took it very wide, pulling us onto the red and white sloped kerb on the outside. The straight away was maybe 200 metres. I was in third riding in the wind of two guys who were just getting out of their saddles and staying very close to each other. I surged between them, bumping shoulders with both, hit the wind out of my saddle and never looked back. In the middle of a sprint it is very hard to consider the things around you — I could see no one in my peripheral but I was not about to verify my lead position. I dropped one more gear and enjoyed the lactic burn that was spewing from my ears and legs. I crossed the line in first position and had just enough time to get my hands in the air and scream at the top of my lungs with a passion that can only be felt during moments like these.

    All the riders were very congratulatory and after the first turn I had my new friends running towards me, tackling me off the bike and hugging and kissing me. Truly amazing! Then another guy came over and gave me the chequered flag and told me to do a victory lap. I rode the lap exhausted, wishing I had more water, while a very rambunctious crowd cheered me on and applauded my efforts. I got back to the starting line and someone took my bike and then I received kisses and hugs from pretty much the entire group of racers and a load of little kids. Meanwhile the guy on the microphone is saying something about me and I turn around to find the microphone stuffed in my face. My Spanish is good enough to make new friends and command a peloton, but after a race with a racing heart and nerves, all I could muster was something like “Muchas gracias, muchas gracias Arrecifes por todo.” In hindsight I should have just started speaking English but that will be for next time. Post-race celebration

    Afterwards we ate like kings with an asado prepared in the dirt. An ingenious idea, really. We drank wine and ate until I could not move anymore. These people were so genuinely lovely and I am amazed that I can somehow put myself into these situations. They invited me to their house the following weekend for another race and then another asado and fiesta where they all want to introduce me to their sisters and daughters. I don’t give out visas that easily!

    I stayed and watched the next few races and got a healthy suntan/burn. A guy out of nowhere comes and finds me and gives me my Garmin and it still worked! He then lectured me about how the people in Argentina are dangerous and you need to be careful with your belongings and how I was really lucky. I was trying to disagree with him but he wasn’t having it and kept lecturing me. I think he wanted a reward or something, which I did not give him.

    Another guy approached me with a 7×10 photo of the sprint finish which was awesome! I will have that picture after I go to Lomas for the next bike race.

    Price to be in love with cycling: 60 pesos for the bus, 70 pesos for the hotel, 40 for food, 8 to pat for his sponsorship, and minus 80 for the prize money from winning my second race in Argentina. Hot damn!

    Update: Pictures from the day

  • Riding the Wave in Downtown Buenos Aires

    There is a phenomenon here in Buenos Aires that I have alluded to in a previous post but I feel that it deserves a little more attention now that I have become a surfing junkie on the streets of BsAs. A lot of people here in BsAs think that I am a little crazy for riding a $2,000 bicycle around the streets of a town with roads the width of our highways back home, all one way, intersected with small veins of cobblestone streets, and filled with thousands of taxis and hissing buses that will send a shiver down the spine of the bravest individual when they breathe down your back waiting to pick up their passengers and spit you out along the way. Although I save on transportation costs (buses and the subte cost $0.30 and taxis are no more than $5 for a half-hour ride), transportation time, and I get some exercise, here is the main reason I love riding around here.

    Every day I leave class and inject myself and my bike into one of the main arteries of BsAs called Córdoba. This road will take you from one side of the city to the other and if you time it right you can make it there faster than any gas-powered vehicle — only a helicopter or a coked-out cartonero could beat you. My attire of sandals, shorts, no helmet, and a lock wrapped around my waist is likely not the most appropriate, but satisfactory nonetheless.

    The lights here in Buenos Aires are all timed, especially on the main roads, and I would guess they used a small Fiat car with a 0.4 litre engine — as many people here have — to judge how long it takes for the cars to reach the next light. This works out perfectly for a bike. Córdoba is approximately 5–8 lanes wide depending on where you are and the right two lanes are reserved for buses and taxis. Taxis float around the city in their thousands, driving slowly along the sides of the streets, while the buses drive at supersonic speed with air shocks that hiss and spit as they jump the many potholes and dying dogs in the road.

    I pick my gear and take a lead at the light to get ahead of the traffic. I can hear the couple dozen motorcycles in between the cars gassing their engines, wishing they could run the lights like I can. Then the terrible noise will start. At first faint, but I can hear it growing and it seems to be focused on me to enact its revenge since it knows that I am taking advantage of what it has to offer. I will approach the first few lights ahead of the timed green light and will take chances to run the lights if I do not hear the perpendicular horns coming my way. The noise behind me will subside but only temporarily and again it will be down my gullet. This time it will engulf me and several dozen motos surround me with a few brave cars that think they can keep up with this high-speed game. The next red light we are all in the same boat, and we pick our line between the waiting cars and gun it through gaps no wider than my shoulders, hoping that the timed green light didn’t decide to change its mind this one time. Eventually I will tire and be taken by the wave and before I know it I am in the middle of the street avoiding slow taxis, and holding on to the backs of trucks trying to gather my breath. Without one red light I can make it home several miles in 5 minutes.

    Me and the motos have a love-hate relationship with each other. They respect my speed but are wary of my manoeuvrability. I could not care less about them and consider them a rock in the wave that I am riding. The larger rocks like potholes and construction points prove to be a lot more difficult, but you handle them as they come.

    This ride deserves a head-mounted video which I will provide soon, I hope.